Art Nouveau plique a jour enamel brooch - pendant with diamonds and a pearl

A truly magnificent art nouveau enamelled brooch. In a process known as plique a jour the translucent enamel is actually fired in between thin wires of gold, a process that has been masterfully used to dramatic effect on the delicately veined wings of this brooch. The subtle enamelling on the flower and the discreet colour transition behind the face make this sought-after jewel a true collectors item.

Probably created in France at the end of the nineteenth century this brooch is made in rose coloured gold and has two old mine cut brilliant diamonds, a rose cut diamond in the flower and a very nice hanging pearl.

Although plique a jour enamel is delicate by its very nature this piece is eminently wearable. Thanks to the later addition of a loop on the back it can be worn, either as a brooch or a pendant and in the right setting it would make a truly noble conversation piece.

A very similar jewel is depicted on picture # 30 in the book "Art Nouveau Jewelry" by Vivienne Becker (1985, Thames and Hudson, ISBN 0-525-24345-3)

Antique jewelry object group: combined pendant and brooch
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN : Although it does not carry any legible control marks we believe it is of French origin.
STYLE : Art Nouveau
STYLE SPECIFICS : Art Nouveau - The floral ornaments and botanical designs are very typical for the Art Nouveau style. Also the use of curvilinear lines is typical for this period.
PERIOD : 1890
SOURCE OF INSPIRATION : Mother Nature
THEME : Lady's head, flowers and insect wings
MATERIAL : 18K yellow gold
TECHNIQUE : plique a jour - Plique a jour which is a French term for a technique of decoration in enamelling by which the design is outlined in metal and filled in with one or variously colored transparent enamels but with no backing behind the enamel, so that the effect is similar to that of a stained-glass window. This effect is clearly visible at one of the pictures we took with lighting from the back.
EXTRA INFO : brooch and pendant - Thanks to an ingenious system, the brooch can be unscrewed to wear it as a pendant and when wearing it as a brooch the discreetly placed ring system in the back, thanks to a hinge system, hides behind the jewel.
EXTRA INFO : patina - Oxidation of any surface & change due to age. A natural staining or discoloration due to aging.
EXTRA INFO : The loopring attached to the ring on the hinge at the back of the piece is not the original. Unfortunately as this normally is the part where the hallmarks are struck.
DIAMONDS : Two old mine brilliant cut diamonds with a total estimated weight of approx. 0.15 crt. and one rose cut diamond. We do not have the weight of this rose cut diamond which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cuts.
PRECIOUS STONES : One lustrous pearls dangling at the bottom of the piece
BIRTHSTONES : Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for the month April (common attributions to diamond) and pearl for June (common attributions to pearls)
WEIGHT : 13.80 gram (8.87 dwt)
SIGNATURE : no trace
HALLMARKS : No trace
CONDITION : Excellent condition except for a little disfiguration of the outer golden loop (visible at approx. 11 o'clock) that we decided to leave it the way it is - (our condition scale)
DIMENSIONS : Width approx. 2.78 cm (1.09 inch)


WHEN REFERRING TO THIS PIECE : Mention the following number: 08106-3980 or click here.



Click here for a general birthstones explanation or click on the following links to see more of our:

Art Nouveau brooches
Art Nouveau pendants
Art Nouveau jewelry
Jewelry with human face
Jewelry with plique ajour enamel
Jewelry with enamel
Articles with birthstones (or month stones) for the month April
Articles with birthstones (or month stones) for the month June
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