High quality Victorian enameled diamond and pearl bracelet signed L.Gautrait

This magnificent bracelet is made and signed by the illustrious jeweller/goldsmith/designer L.Gautrait. In the book "Pariser Schmuck, Vom Zweiten Kaiserreich zur Belle Epoque" (German for "Parisian jewelry, from the second Empire to the Belle Epoque") from 1989 (ISBN 3-7774-5220-3) a special chapter is dedicated to L.Gautrait. Most of the information there seems to come from Vever's book (the "bible" for antique jewelers, written around 1900) but it is also mentioned that Gautrait, just like Lalique, uses brilliants and precious stones more as discrete accents.

The bracelet is enameled in three colors (pink, green and little white accents) and embellished with floral ornaments, golden details in and on the enameled surfaces, pearls, rose cut diamonds and old mine brilliant cut diamonds. Two types of rectangular links (three "laying" and three "standing") alternate one by one and are connected by two little orient pearls and a little white enameled flower. The closure of the bracelet is skillfully hidden in a "standing" link. It is also on the clasp of the closure where we can find the hallmarks.

The mastermark on this bracelet is that of Léon Gariod. His company was established by Gaucher and Tonnelier in 1859 and Gariod took over the company 1884. The company with its address in Rue St. Augustin 29 in Paris became specialized in articulated bracelets and mat gold chains with precious stones. What's interesting about this company is that they worked very closely together with L.Gautrait, an illustrious jeweler of the Art Nouveau period of who not much, if any, biographical information is known. According to Vever, Gautrait was a "ciseleur-modeleur" and fidèle collaborateur" of the Parisian jewelers Léon Gariod. Vever characterized his colleague as an "excellent perfectionist jeweler with a delicate taste".

Antique jewelry object group: flexible bracelets/bangles
Country of origin: France
Style: Victorian - (styles overview)
Period: ca. 1870 (events and facts in 1870)
Material: 18K yellow gold with little platinum accents in which the diamonds are set. - (precious metals)
Technique: Enamelling is an old and widely-adopted technology. The ancient Egyptians applied enamels to pottery and stone objects. The ancient Greeks, Celts, Russians, and Chinese also used enameling processes on metal objects. Enamel is the colorful result of fusing powdered glass to a substrate by firing, usually between 750 and 850 degrees Celsius. The powder melts and flows and hardens to a smooth, durable vitreous coating on metal, glass or ceramic. According to some sources, the word enamel comes from the High German word smelzan (to smelt) via the Old French esmail. Used as a noun, "an enamel" is a usually small decorative object, coated with enamel coating, such as a champlevé or a cloisonné (different techniques).
Diamonds: Three old mine brilliant cut diamonds with a total estimated weight of approx. 0.50 crt. and 24 rose cut diamonds. We do not have the weight of the diamonds which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cuts.
Note: All diamond weights, color grades and clarity are approximate since the stones were not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.
Precious stones: Twelve natural pearls - (precious stones)
Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April and pearl for June. - (general birthstones explanation)
Signature: L.Gautrait (signed at the back of one link - see pictures for detail)
Hallmarks: The French control mark for 18K gold representing an eagle's head that was in use in France from about 1838. There are also Dutch hallmarks in this bracelet. These hallmarks are for articles (in finished condition) that were brought to the essay office ("750" indicating 18K gold) - (general hallmarks info)
Condition: excellent condition - (our condition scale)
Dimensions: Length approx. 18.70 cm (7.36 inch)
Weight: 42.60 gram (27.39 dwt)

Reference Nº: 09023-4226

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