French Léon Gariod Gold and Silver Star Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet, circa 1880

With its large blue star sapphire, diamond-set silver links and substantial yellow-gold curb chain, this bracelet is a fine example of late nineteenth-century French haute joaillerie. Its 96 rose-cut diamonds lead the eye from the sapphire into the articulated links, while its flexible construction lets it settle naturally on the wrist. A Parisian jewel by Léon Gariod, whom Henri Vever, the foremost chronicler of nineteenth-century French jewellery, praised for the rare perfection of his work.

Jewellery type: Flexible link bracelet.

Condition: Excellent condition. No repairs were observed.

Country of origin: France.

Style: Victorian, a broad period designation for this French late nineteenth-century bracelet.

Period: circa 1880.

Material: 18K yellow gold, touchstone tested, with silver-topped, gold-backed diamond settings.

Technique: Articulated gold links and silver-on-gold diamond settings.

Diamonds: 96 rose-cut diamonds.

We individually screened every diamond in this bracelet using the EXA Natural Diamond Detector developed by Magilabs; each test returned a natural-diamond result.

Rose-cut diamonds are traditionally described by number rather than by estimated weight, colour or clarity. Their irregular proportions, often compounded by closed settings, make reliable weight estimation and standard grading impracticable while mounted.

Gemstone: One oval cabochon-cut natural blue star sapphire, measuring 16.5 × 14.2 × 11.3 mm, with a clearly visible star effect.

The sapphire is conservatively estimated to weigh approximately 25 carats. Its substantial cabochon profile may mean that its actual weight is higher, possibly approaching 28 carats.

It is common practice for sapphires to be treated to improve their colour or clarity. The sapphire in this bracelet has not been tested for such treatments.

Traditional gemstone associations: Sapphire is traditionally associated with September and wisdom; diamond is the traditional birthstone for April and is associated with enduring love.

Maker: By Léon Gariod, Paris, bearing his registered maker’s mark: a vertical lozenge enclosing a horn between the letters “L” and “G”.

Henri Vever, the foremost chronicler of nineteenth-century French jewellery, records in his landmark book French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century that Gariod specialised in articulated bracelets and matt gold chains decorated with stones, an unusually direct historical parallel for this bracelet.

René Lalique later supplied designs to Gariod, placing the house within the creative network of leading late nineteenth-century French jewellery.

Hallmarks: French maker’s mark for Léon Gariod; French eagle’s-head guarantee marks for 18-carat gold; and a French rhinoceros-head remark mark used on flexible gold chains.

A detailed enlargement showing all of the marks is included among the accompanying photographs.

Dimensions: Length 18.70 cm (7.36 in) See photograph with a millimetre scale.

Weight: 39.7 grams

Historical references: Henri Vever, French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century, pp. 1114 to 1116 and 1208; Rémi Verlet, Dictionnaire des joailliers, bijoutiers et orfèvres en France, de 1850 à nos jours, p. 974.

Adin Reference Nº: 26211-00077

Photography © Adin Fine Antique & Vintage Jewellery.