A 1930 Art Deco diamond brooch still accompanied by its own history

A striking Art Deco platinum diamond brooch, circa 1930, whose disciplined geometry is softened by a remarkably intimate history. Set with over 10 carats of old European, old brilliant and single cut diamonds, it remains with its pouch, handwritten technical card from 1932 and even the black textile strip once used to secure it behind a garment. These surviving details make one feel less like an owner than a passing companion, one whose life runs briefly alongside the jewel’s own story before helping it onwards to its next appreciative generation.

Jewellery Type
brooch

Condition
very good condition
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Country of origin
unknown

Style
Art Deco - Art Deco was one of the defining design styles of the 1920s and 1930s. In jewellery, it is especially associated with platinum, diamonds, geometric composition, architectural balance and a taste for sharp, modern elegance.
See also: Art Deco
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Style specifics
This brooch shows the Art Deco preference for geometry particularly clearly: a strong central circular form is set against rectangular side panels, all carried out in platinum and diamonds. The design moves away from the flowing naturalism of Art Nouveau and instead favours symmetry, contrast and disciplined ornament. The accompanying handwritten technical card, which appears to be dated 24 October 1932, fits well with this Art Deco character.

Period
ca. 1930
Events & facts of this era, poetry of this era, fashion of this era.

Material
platinum with an 18K white gold safety chain and a steel safety pin
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Diamonds
One old European cut diamond with an approximate weight of 1.80 ct.
Two old brilliant cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.00 ct.
30 old brilliant cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 4.92 ct.
130 single cut diamonds, also called 8/8 cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 2.82 ct.

Total diamond count
163 pcs.

Total diamond weight
approx. 10.54 ct

The central diamond has estimated colour and clarity grades of I/J, SI2. The remaining diamonds have average estimated colour and clarity grades of G/J, VS/I.

- All stated diamond weights, colour grades and clarity grades are approximate unless otherwise noted, as diamonds are not removed from their settings in order to preserve the integrity of the piece.

- All diamonds in our antique and vintage jewellery, regardless of size or shape, are verified by the IJGC laboratory to be natural.

Birthstones
Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April.
more info on birthstones

More background information
This brooch was acquired from the previous owner together with its pouch, the handwritten technical card and even the black elastic textile strip that appears to have been used by the original wearer. The strip could be placed behind the garment, allowing the safety pin to pass through it and helping to keep the brooch securely in position.

The handwritten card appears to be dated 24 October 1932 and records several technical details, including the platinum setting, the weight of the brooch with its safety chain, and individual measurements of several diamonds. Such surviving notes are rarely elaborate, but they can be wonderfully revealing. They show that this jewel was not only worn, but also measured, recorded and carefully kept.

What makes this brooch especially charming is that these modest accompanying pieces have remained together with it: the jewel, the old note, the pouch and even the practical little strip of black textile. They give the brooch a more personal history, bringing us unusually close to the way it was once owned, protected and worn.

Hallmarks
No trace.
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Dimensions
6,05 cm (2,38 inch) x 4,11 cm (1,62 inch)
see picture with a ruler in millimeters and inches

Weight
14,70 gram (9,45 dwt)

Adin Reference Nº
26155-0157

Copyright photography
Adin, fine antique jewellery

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