A French Late Victorian Insect Brooch Made for Mischief, circa 1890

There is a particular pleasure in wearing a jewel like this: small, unexpected and quietly playful, as if a bright little creature has chosen to settle on the fabric for a while. This French late Victorian brooch, circa 1890, brings a touch of movement and mischief to clothing, catching the eye with flashes of diamond light and colour. It is less a formal ornament than a moment of sensory delight, made to be noticed close at hand.

Jewellery Type
brooch

Condition
very good condition
more info on our condition scale

Country of origin
France

Style
Late Victorian – In the final decades of Queen Victoria’s reign, jewellery became increasingly varied, imaginative and personal. Alongside historic revival styles, jewellers explored naturalistic motifs, colourful gemstone combinations and lighter, more playful designs. The Aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese taste and the early stirrings of Art Nouveau all helped shape this refined and sometimes whimsical late Victorian language.
See also: late-Victorian
more info on styles

Style specifics
The Late or Aesthetic Victorian Period – The reign of Queen Victoria, commonly known as the Victorian era, is often divided into three broad phases: the Romantic period, the Grand period and the Late or Aesthetic period. This jewel belongs to the latter phase, when jewellery design became lighter, more refined and more open to naturalistic and artistic inspiration.

This insect brooch is a fine example of that taste: a jewel in which natural form, bright gemstones and diamond-set brilliance are combined with decorative imagination. Its lively composition and richly coloured body reflect the late Victorian love of jewels that were not only precious, but also witty, animated and full of character.

Period
ca. 1890
Events & facts of this era, poetry of this era, fashion of this era.

Source of inspiration
Nature

Theme
a stylised insect, probably inspired by a beetle

Material 18K
warm yellow gold with a subtle reddish hue
more info on precious metals

Diamonds
Eleven old brilliant cut diamonds with an approximate total weight of 1.25 ct, colour G to I and clarity VS to I
- Any stated diamond weights, colour grades and clarity grades are approximate unless otherwise noted, as diamonds are not removed from their settings in order to preserve the integrity of the jewel.

- All diamonds in our antique and vintage jewellery, regardless of size or shape, are verified through the IJGC laboratory as natural.

Precious stones
One sapphire with an approximate total weight of 0.45 ct
Two rubies with an approximate total weight of 0.06 ct

Two emeralds with an approximate total weight of 0.60 ct

All stated coloured stone weights are approximate unless otherwise noted, as stones are not removed from their settings in order to preserve the integrity of the jewel.
Gemstones are often treated to improve their colour or clarity. The stones in this jewel have not been tested for treatment unless otherwise stated.

Birthstones
Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April, ruby for July sapphire for September and emerald for May.
more info on birthstones

Hallmarks
The French control mark for 18K gold representing an eagle's head that was in use in France from about 1838.
more info on hallmarks

Dimensions
3,76 cm (1,48 inch) x 1,27 cm (0,50 inch)
see picture with a ruler in millimeters and inches

Weight
9,30 gram (5,98 dwt)

Adin Reference Nº
26050-0266

Copyright photography
Adin, fine antique jewellery

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