Antique jewelry glossary

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Émail en ronde bosse

Émail en ronde bosse (French) literally, enamel on an object in the round. Decoration with opaque enamel (usually white) applied thickly on a raised or modelled metal surface to form a relief decoration, or applied over metal figures in the round. Several layers of enamel were applied, but when different colours were used, they were laid on evenly over the surface (sometimes roughened to help becoming affixed) so as not to overlap. After each layer or colour was applied, the piece had to be refired, and, after fusing, smoothed and sometimes polished, sometimes requiring up to ten firings.

This style is associated with Renaissance jewelry as, although it was used in France and Spain during the 14th and 15th centuries, it became the style generally used by jewellers in the 16th century. Also called 'encrusted enamel'.

From: An Illustrated Dictionary of Jewelry, autor: Harold Newman, publishers: Thames and Hudson